Notes

MILAN FASHION DISTRICT
Best Food in Milan 2024

Panettone is ubiquitous during the Christmas season, stacked in bakeries and filling supermarket aisles. But a few places offer this pillowy, sweet bread all year round. One is Erba Brusca alongside the Naviglio Pavese canal, where a short menu tuned in with nature uses ingredients from the restaurant's vegetable garden (think spaghetti with clams, truffle and wood sorrel). Perfect for a post-work detox.

1. Trattoria Trippa

In this high-energy trattoria, Diego Rossi puts a head-to-tail, ingredient-focused spin on traditional Italian cuisine. He cooks up offal specialties like fried tripe and a collagen-rich version of pasta al burro, while adding modern twists to other unassuming classics. The food is incredibly satisfying and inexpensive (the fried pizza pockets, or panzerotti, cost less than $3 EUR). For a more traditional dinner, try the ossobuco (crosscut veal shank), braised with onions, carrots and white wine until it's fork-tender and bursting with jelly-like marrow. And don't forget to order a few glasses of the superb natural wines on offer.

2. business etiquette in Italy

In the city’s outskirts, farm-to-table dining fuses with Milanese classics. A short menu at this country-chic hideaway alongside the Naviglio Pavese canal tunes diners in to the region’s bounty, like saffron-laced rice and clams (erba brusca). Pair with a natural wine from an expertly curated list. 28 Posti is a leader among the growing number of avant-garde pizza restaurants in town, helmed by second-generation pieiolo Denis Lovatel. He uses a proprietary umami-forward blend of powdered herbs, coal and bee pollen to infuse crusts, which pair with inventive vegetable-heavy toppings and precise service. One of the best places for a fat, juicy Florentine steak is Ribot, which offers a comprehensive cocktail, dinner and lunch menu. This traditional family-run restaurant is also known for its perfectly cooked Florentine cuts.

3. Nebbia

The city may be famous for boundary-pushing fashion, but its culinary scene is booming as well. Across the city, chefs put creative spins on traditional ingredients, and new restaurants (many of them women-owned) embrace social inclusion and vegetable-forward menus. Bubbly Campari sodas and fernet-branca cocktails, along with Old World traditions like boxes of artisan panettone around the holidays, still characterize the cuisine of Lombardy. But the food scene also showcases a more contemporary Italian style, thanks to inventive chefs and savvy restaurateurs. 28 Posti, named for the number of seats in this Navigli-side restaurant, is one of the best examples. Its eponymous chef is a master of the Milanese version of brodo, or broth-based soups, with dishes like cod tripe and Trasimeno beans bathed in prosciutto broth.

4. Horto

A farm-to-table stalwart in a city that’s obsessed with seasonality, Horto’s menu finds culinary inspiration from its own gardens. Sip a glass of natural wine from the cellar and dine on an array of dishes like the grilled clams with wild sorrel (erba brusca). This classic Milanese trattoria is a true local gem. Its saffron risotto alla Milanese con ossobuco (saffron risotto with braised veal shank) elevates two of the region’s most beloved and traditional dishes. Chef Cesare Battisti swaps out Parmesan for the sweeter Lodigiano for a silky-smooth dish. At the Mercato Centrale, master baker Davide Longoni serves the best pizza al taglio in the city, a warm rectangle of anchovy, cucumber, and burrata with fresh sage. He also stocks his own line of fragrant sourdough bread and focaccia di Recco, thin layers of unleavened dough stuffed with fresh crescenza cheese.

5. Ratana

Amid the rebirth of Milan’s Navigli neighborhood, chef Cesare Battisti’s Ratana leads the pack with inventive cuisine and precise service. A tasting menu takes a stab at culinary waters that would seem less tested in other cities, with dishes like burnt onion with fermented wild strawberries and rigatoni tossed in miso. Vegetarians will find a welcome relief in this upscale eatery from the team behind Joia, with a menu that’s both innovative and approachable. Guests can sample a rotating vegetarian tasting menu, paired with a select list of natural wines. One of two meat stars in Milan (cotoletta being the other), ossobuco is a crosscut veal shank braised until fork-tender with a jelly-like bone center. It’s typically served with risotto alla Milanese or polenta. If you travel to Milan, we highly recommend the Milano Explorer.

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