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The Romanian team who left in the Himalayas on Nanga Parbat summit (8126) from Pakistan for a Romanian first ascent of the Rupal wall, could be evacuate from the mountains due to the taliban terrorists.
While the Romanian team, formed by Zsolt Torok - leader, Teo Vlad, Marius Gane, Bruno Adamcsek and Aurel Salasan, was ascending the mountain and equipping the route, on the other side of the mountain, in base camp of the Diamir face, had place a terrorist atack, whose victims were 11 climbers who were there at that moment: 3 Ukrainians, 2 Slovaks, 2 Chinese, 1 Lithuanian, 1 Nepalese, 1 Pakistani and 1 American-Chinese.
Saturday/Sunday night a group of 10 terrorists disguised in police officers took hostage two local guides, entered over those in base camp, took their money and phones and then murdered by shooting them. Another chinese who was in the base camp managed to escape and to hide into a rimaye (crevasse). A Pakistani chef managed to hide a phone and later to alert the authorities about what happened.
All the expeditions from the Diamir face were evacuated and the area was closed, but at this moment it doesn't know yet if the Romanian team also will have to leave the area.
From the latest informations received from Muhammad Ali, the representative of Karakurum Magic Mountain Agency from Pakistan, agency which organised the Romanian Expedition, in the Rupal base camp are two police officers. It doesn't know yet if they are there to evacuate the area or to have the Romanian team in supervision, the only one on that face of the mountain.
Yesterday, the Romanian team reached the altitude of 7200 m, on Schell route, from where it's seen the whole Diamir face and the base camp related to it. In to a message sent by Zsolt Torok, the leader of the expedition, he says: "We worked so hard, I don't want to finish like this. We stayed at 7200 m with Aurel and we were thinking at the drama that had place in the Diamir base camp. "
Nanga Parbat summit has 8126 m and it is the ninth summit from the world.
The expedition begun on 5th June. Zsolt Torok also tried to climbe up this summit but he had a life and death experience.
The Expedtion to Nanga Parbat begun on 5th June after six months of training. The members of the expedtion are: Marius Gane, Teofil Vlad, Aurel Salasan, Bruno Adamcsek and Zsolt Torok, the leader of the team. The Romanian team who left in the expedition has created a facebook page (Expediţie Românească Nanga Parbat 2013) and the site: www.nangaparbat2013.com, and also the most updated site where are the latest informations: www.torok.ro
"Saturday to Sunday night had place a terrorist atack in the base camp of Nanga Parbat, Diamir face. The Pakistani talibans killed 11 climbers who were there at that hour. Sunday morning when we learned about the atack, the informations were pretty confused. It didn't know if the atack had place in the base camp of Nanga Parbat or at a hotel where the victims would have been Chinese tourists, but many clues led to the fact that the atack had place in the Diamir Base Camp. When Zsolt called me, Sunday morning, he was enthusiastic that they managed to equip the route up to 6000 m, I couldn't be so happy because in my mind was the thought that the climbers were killed on the other side of the mountain last night. Initially, i didn't want to tell him about what had happened, because I wasn't 100% sure about the information, but when he asked me what had happened on the other route, I told him about the massacre. He didn't believe what he was hearing and we decided to call again in the evening for learning more informations. In this moment they are good, Zsolt, Teo si Aurel are in the camp 3, at 6600 m, Bruno is in camp 1 and Marius is in the base camp. " said Minerva Vincze, Torok's wife, on the social networking site.
She also says: "The Rupal Base Camp is different than the Diamir Base Camp, and from what is known untill now, there weren't incidents. After I learned from the press that all the climbers from the Diamir face would be evacuated and the all area closed, I contacted Mohammad Ali, from Karakurum Magic Mountain Agency, those who are in charge of the romanian expedition. I asked him if also the Romanian Expedition has to leave the area. He doesn't have any informations about this but he promised me that he will contact me when he learn something, then to inform the team. There are no words to describe the sadness and the pain for what happned on the other side of the mountain. We are beside the families of the climbers who were killed and the alpine community which is the biggest family, of which they were members."
The desire of the Romanian team is to contiune the expedition safely, especialy now when the equipement of the route has been made and they are waiting just a good weather window in order to make the final ascent of the Nanga Parbat summit (8126).
The Romanian tem is the only one on this side of the mountain and it seems it was a good choice. They also don't use supplemental oxygen and sherpas help, climbing up by themselves to equip the route. Today, the members of the team descent to base camp in order to regain their strength, and because of the weather they will have to wait another good weather window.
When they arrive in Base Camp, the team will call to give us more informations about what is going to happen with expedtion.
More informations you can find out soon on the facebook page of the expedition: Expediţie Românească Nanga Parbat 2013; on Zsolt's profile: Zsolt Torok; and from the site: www.torok.ro
Other sources about the Pakistan events:
http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.ro/
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/23/pakistan-gunmen-climbers_n_3484986.html


     
 
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