Notes

How to pick an extension cord in a brick-and-mortar store
You'll find that extension cords sold online are of better quality and less expensive than what's typically stocked at brick-and-mortar hardware stores. If you can wait a day or two for shipping, buying online is a good option. However, if you are working on a project and need an extension cord right now, then this advice is not particularly helpful. If you're only going to buy one cord, focus on indoor/outdoor extension cords—typically the brightly colored kinds—and follow the tips here to snag the best cord from the limited selection in the store. If you're looking for an indoor cord just to extend your phone charger or plug in a light, the guidelines are a little different.

Buy a longer cord than you think you'll need.

When you're guessing how long you'll need an extension cord, leave yourself extra room for error and buy the next longest cord. Not only is a longer cord more convenient—barely reaching your work area is annoying—but it's also safer. That's because you shouldn't have to daisy-chain extension cords, connecting one to the other. The extra length of multiple wires connected to each other (without thicker wires to make up the distance) adds resistance between the outlet and the thing you're trying to power. The added resistance in turn causes the voltage to drop, causing devices like drills, saws, and vacuum cleaners to run at lower power. The extra resistance of daisy-chained wires can also cause additional heat to build up along the way, increasing the risk of one of the wires melting or even starting a fire.

Even though you'll usually ignore the safety risks in favor of cheaper, shorter cords, there's another practical reason to get a longer cord. A long cord means you are less likely to need to buy another extension cord for the next project.

Thicker cords can carry more power.

Two different extension cords, one green and one red, side by side.

Photo by Kyle Fitzgerald

In addition to length, the thickness of the wire inside the extension cord determines how much power it can safely carry. Thicker wires can carry more power over greater distances. Any wire in a big box store should meet the minimum requirements for running low-power devices such as lights, battery chargers, or stereos (see the chart below). But if https://www.servinails.com/product/100-ft-50-amp-rv-extension-cord-with-finger-holder/ want to safely run power tools like drills, saws, or wet and dry vacuums at peak power, the minimum requirements won't work.




The recommended wire gauge for extension cords

Wire Length What thickness do you need?

14/3 (14 AWG), 25 feet

50 feet, 12/3 (12 AWG).

100 feet, 10/3 (10 AWG).

In the United States, the thickness of wire is generally expressed in wire gauge, or AWG. A larger number means a smaller wire, which in turn means it can carry less power. The thinner 14 AWG is the thinnest wire we recommend at only 25 feet or less, while the thicker 10 AWG is probably the thickest gauge you'll find on an extension cord. When you're trying to decide which wire is right for you, look at the numbers in the table above.

Look for a wire that can handle 15 amps.

A close-up of the gauge on the extension cord package.

Photo by Kyle Fitzgerald

If you're confused about the relationship between length and wire thickness, at least look at the amperage rating on the package. We recommend skipping indoor/outdoor extension cords rated at 10A or 13A and instead buying an extension cord rated at at least 15A (if the extension cord doesn't list a maximum amperage, you should skip it altogether). That way, you can plug in any household tool or device, and a 15A circuit breaker or fuse—the kind you'll find in most residential electrical panels—will cut power before the extension cord is pushed to its limit.

For home use, you don't need to worry about voltage ratings. Most wires are labeled 125V or 130V, which is consistent with residential voltages in the United States. Contractor wires used in the workplace may be rated up to 300V to meet workplace safety requirements. While these cords may be a bit more robust, there is no reason to spend the extra money on them if you are not a professional.

Wires designed for cold weather are often more flexible.

In our guide to the best extension cords, we found that some cords are more flexible than others, especially in colder temperatures. Flexible cords are easier to stretch in your workspace, easier to coil and store properly, and less frustrating to use in tight spaces. It's hard to tell which cords will be easier to use when they are tightly wrapped in packaging on the shelf. Without unpacking all the wires in the aisle, the only way to ensure you get more flexible wires is to find wires made for lower temperatures. Not all wire packages list the ideal temperature range for wires, but we have found that wires that list temperatures below freezing are usually more flexible at any temperature.

Skip indoor/outdoor cords with multiple outlets.

It's tempting to pick up an extension cord with several extra outlets on the end, often called a "banana tap." However, if you're looking for a durable cord to run tools, equipment, work lights, or other power-hungry devices, we don't recommend them because they're more likely to be overloaded. For example, a 15A cord can easily handle a circular saw, but if you add a couple of bright work lights, you'll overload the cord every time you start the saw. If you have a 15A breaker on that circuit, it will immediately trip when you try to run the saw, making it impossible to do the job. Or if you have a less common 20A or higher breaker, you run the risk of a current surge that will overheat your wires. For anything that requires a lot of power, and for general-purpose cords that you'll want to have on hand for years, stick to one outlet per cord and per piece of equipment. Indoor cords, designed to power less demanding items like cell phone chargers and lamps, have slightly different rules.

Different guidelines for indoor-specific cords

If your cords are for your living room or nightstand, you're probably not looking for the thick, heavy, bright orange or yellow cords we talked about above-you may want something like the cords we recommend for indoor use in our extension cord guide. For low-power devices like cell phone chargers, desk lamps, or wireless speakers, less sturdy indoor cords are fine, as long as you're aware of their limitations. A small fan is OK, but a window air conditioner is not. A digital photo frame isn't a problem, but using it to power a home theater is a bad idea.

The most important thing to remember about indoor wiring is that UL, and even modern building codes, do not allow extension cords to be used for permanent installations. This definitely means don't use them to wire outlets instead of real wires, but experts also tell us that indoor cords are often used as long-term solutions and run around couches, beds, and other furniture. All those nooks and crannies and snags can stress wires, wear out coats, and become a major fire hazard in your home. If you own your own home, save up and hire an electrician to install an outlet where you need it.

If you rent, or have no other choice, be especially careful when buying or using indoor electrical wiring. Just like outdoor wiring, buy something longer than you need. It's more important to have a little slack in your indoor cords so you don't stress the jacket when you pull the cord around corners. Outdoor cords have standard plugs, but on indoor cords you should look for flat plugs so they are less likely to be bumped or ripped from the wall outlet, exposing the connection.

While indoor cords usually have thinner insulation, you may get more protection if you choose round cords. Round cords may have two layers of insulation, making them more durable than single-layer cords, where you can see a groove between the insulation of the two cords. Just like outdoor cords, indoor cords will have an amperage rating that tells you how much electricity is safe to plug in. The amperage of indoor cords is generally suitable for digital devices that don't use much electricity, but don't plan to run your power tools on it a year from now when there are no other wires around. Indoor cords are also not weather resistant, which means they are more likely to fail if left in full sun or moisture for long periods of time.



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