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How exactly to Repair a Refrigerator in the home
A refrigerator is among the few appliances in your home that runs continuously, day or night, maintaining your food cold. If you consider how hard a refrigerator must work, it is actually quite amazing that they break down so infrequently. On the rare occasion your refrigerator does go wrong, you may face a higher repair bill and the expense of replacing all your lost food. Haven't any fear! This article is here now to tell you all you need to learn about repairing your refrigerator and freezer yourself. You could be surprised to discover that repairs are actually quite easy, requiring a little knowledge about the applying and a little patience. Let's get started with some basic information.

Refrigerators and freezers contain two basic components: a condenser coil and an evaporator coil. A liquid coolant is circulated through these coils by way of a compressor and a motor. The refrigerant liquid is cooled in the condenser; after that it flows to the evaporator. At the evaporator, the air in the machine is cooled by connection with the liquid-filled coil. The condenser of a refrigerator or freezer may be the coil on the outside of the machine; the evaporator may be the coil inside. The coolant is circulated through the machine by a compressor.

Most refrigerators and freezers are frost-free. In this type of unit, a heater is automatically fired up by a timer as a way to melt the frost inside the unit. Frost is melted by the heater at several different spots in the machine, you start with the coldest & most frosted areas. When the frost is completely melted, the thermostat automatically switches to a cooling cycle in order to maintain the standard freezing temperature. Because this process is automatic, frost will not build up inside the box.

The unit's compressor system, which forces the coolant through the coil system, is driven by a capacitor-type motor. Other basic elements of the cooling/defrosting system include switches, thermostats, heaters, condensers, and fans. A do-it-yourselfer can ensure that you replace many of these refrigerator components. However, you can find exceptions, as explained later, that are best left to a specialist repair person.

Caution: Before doing any focus on a refrigerator or freezer, make sure it's unplugged. After unplugging the machine, check to see if the motor/compressor has a capacitor; this component is situated in a housing on the top of the motor. Capacitors store electricity, even though the power to the machine is turned off. Before you do any focus on a capacitor-type refrigerator or freezer, you must discharge the capacitor, or you could receive a severe shock.

Contents
Discharing a Capacitor
Servicing a Refrigerator Door
Servicing Door Hinges
Servicing Internal Components
Servicing the Defrost Timer
Discharing a Capacitor
To discharge the capacitor:

Step 1 1: Unplug the refrigerator or freezer.

Step 2 2: To get access to the capacitor, remove the service panel on the back rear portion of the machine or the service panel on leading of the unit below the door, as detailed later for disassembly. The capacitor is situated in a housing at the top of the motor/compressor unit; it appears like a big dry cell battery.

Step three 3: To discharge the capacitor, use a 20,000-ohm, 2-watt resistor -- an inexpensive wire unit offered by most electrical supply stores. Fasten the probes of the resistor to the terminals of the capacitor; this discharges the capacitor. If the capacitor has three terminal posts, connect the resistor to one outer terminal and the center terminal, then to another outside terminal and the center terminal. After discharging the capacitor, it is possible to proceed with the repairs.

Disassembling the Refrigerator
The control components of a refrigerator are often located in the most notable or upper portion of the machine. The motor, compressor, condenser coil, and condenser fan can be found in underneath section.

To gain access to the components in the upper section of the unit, take away the retaining screws or pry out the clips that hold plastic or metal panels on the parts. These fasteners may be hidden by trim or molding; in cases like this, pry off the trim or molding with a stiff-bladed putty knife. Protruding controls could also serve as retainers for the various panel sections. Generally in most refrigerators, the shelves could be removed to allow access to a number of the panels.

To gain usage of the lower section of the refrigerator, remove something panel held by retaining screws behind the unit below the condenser coils. The unit may also have a front access panel below the entranceway. This panel may be held by retaining screws, or it could slip up and off two side brackets. On some models, you can tip the refrigerator over and test and service parts from underneath. In cases like this, the refrigerator must be defrosted, unplugged, and emptied before any servicing can be achieved.

The condenser and evaporator coils and the compressor are sealed units of all refrigerators. In case a malfunction occurs within these parts, call a professional service person. Other areas can usually be unscrewed or pried loose from mounting brackets.

Testing the Power Cord

If the cord of the machine looks frayed, or in the event that you see burn marks on the prongs of the plug or at the terminal screws -- on the terminal block, beneath the rear access panel of the machine -- the cord could be faulty. Test the cord with a VOM set to the RX1 scale (instructions for using the VOM can be found here).

An enormous amount of refrigerator problems can stem from the easy opening and closing of the entranceway. From improper temperature to an abundance of frost, door maintenance could solve all of your problems. To learn how exactly to service your refrigerator door, move on to the next section.

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Chart
There are many explanations why a refrigerator or freezer might malfunction. For a complete guide to refrigerator problems and possible causes, just click here.

Servicing a Refrigerator Door
If you find your refrigerator's compressor is constantly running -- wasting energy and cutting down the life of one's appliance -- it may be due to issues with the door. Ideally, the climate in the refrigerator would never be broken, and the unit could maintain a reliable temperature constantly. Of course, we have to open our refrigerators many times a day. Here are some ideas to keep your doors working properly and to keep the heated air away from your meal.

Servicing the entranceway Gasket
When a refrigerator gasket (usually a rubber seal around the door) becomes hard or cracked, its seal is broken, and the unit's efficiency drops sharply. Test the door gasket for leaks by placing a dollar bill between the gasket and the door jamb and closing the entranceway. Pull the bill out. If it offers some resistance, chances are the gasket fits properly. If the bill comes right out, or falls out, the gasket is faulty and really should be replaced. Test the gasket at several locations round the door. Before you replace the gasket, check the door hinges for leakage.

To displace a gasket:

Step 1 1: Buy a gasket made designed for the model refrigerator you own. So-called fit-all gaskets may fit following a fashion, but tailoring them to the door's configuration could be a tough job. If you aren't sure about the model amount of your refrigerator, cut out a small portion of the gasket and take the sample to an appliance dealer for matching. If the gasket has to be ordered, you can glue the section back to the gap with rubber cement for a make-do repair before new gasket comes in.

Step 2 2: Let the new gasket sit about a day in the room with the refrigerator to create it to the correct temperature and humidity, or soak the gasket in tepid to warm water to create it pliable.

Step 3 3: Begin removing the old gasket. Door gaskets are held by screws, clips, or adhesives, and the gasket could have a retaining strip, which helps shape it and provides a fastening tab or guide. On some units, the gasket may be held in place by the edge of the entranceway panel; the panel is fastened with spring-steel pressure clips, bolts, or screws. To eliminate the gasket, take away the fasteners that hold it and remove any retaining strips; or remove the fasteners that hold the door panel.

Step 4 4: Finish removing the fasteners using one side of the entranceway at a time. Usually do not remove the entire door panel. If the gasket is held by spring clips, be careful not to pry too hard on the clips; they're under tension and may spring out of their mountings. If the gasket is held by adhesive, pry it off with a putty knife.

Step 5: Once the old gasket is off, clean the mounting area thoroughly with mild household detergent and water. Remove stubborn adhesive with mineral spirits and fine steel wool, followed by a detergent/water rinse.

Step 6: Start the replacement at one side of the top of the entranceway. Work down the sides to replace the complete gasket. Smooth the gasket evenly into place, easing it around corners. Use gasket cement to secure it if the maker specifies this step. Make sure the gasket lies flat, with no lumps or curled edges.

Step 7: Replace the fasteners, retaining strips, or panel that held the old gasket. After the gasket is in place, tighten or loosen the mounting bolts necessary to adjust the gasket to the door jamb. If the gasket is glued in place, there isn't much that you can do but wait for the gasket to conform to the door jamb.

Test the gasket on a freezer door with the same dollar-bill procedure; if the gasket is faulty, replace it with a new gasket made specifically for the freezer. Do not remove the freezer door to displace the gasket. Freezer doors tend to be tensioned with spring devices, which may be very troublesome to displace following the door has been removed, and on some models wiring has to be disassembled as well.

Servicing Door Hinges
A worn or broken door gasket may not be the reason for door leaks. Misaligned and loose door hinges could cause the entranceway to rock or sag slightly, making a good well-fitted gasket ineffective.

Step one 1: If the entranceway won't shut tightly, tip the refrigerator slightly backward by propping up leading of the unit or unscrewing the front leveling legs two complete turns. Experiment with this adjustment before door stays closed, but don't tip the machine very far out of front-to-back level.

Step two 2: If leveling fails, tighten the hinge screws. You might have to open the door (especially the freezer door) to turn these screws. On some units, you could have to eliminate a hinge cap or trim to attain the screws; pry off the cap or trim with a screwdriver. Sagging and looseness could be corrected by shimming the door hinges. Loosen the hinge and place a hinge-shaped cardboard shim between the hinge and the door. Then tighten the hinge again. Sagging can also be the effect of a wrongly placed shim. In this instance, you can correct the problem by detatching the shim. Experiment with the shims; you might be able to get rid of the sagging.

Step three 3: If the door is warped, tighten the screws that hold the inner door shell to the outer door shell. You could have to improve or adjust the door gasket after causeing this to be adjustment.

Step 4: Check the catch. Newer units have a magnetic catch on the door. If the door doesn't latch properly, remove the magnetic strike from the inner door shell and shim it slightly with a bit of thin cardboard. You could have to regulate the gasket to conform with the brand new shim.

Servicing the Door Switch
On the refrigerator door jamb, locate a small push-button switch. This component operates the light inside the refrigerator. If the switch is malfunctioning, the light in the unit may stick to, and heat from the lightbulb can cause cooling trouble in the box.

Step 1 1: Check the bulb to see if it is burned out. Or even, depress the push button on the entranceway switch.

Step 2 2: If the light stays on, clean the switch with a cloth. Then take away the switch from the jamb. Remove retaining screws hidden by a plastic trim piece, pry the replace of the jamb with a screwdriver, or pry off the jamb trim to expose the switch. Then test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale (instructions for utilizing the VOM receive on page 19).

Step three 3: Clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal of the switch and press the push button. The meter should read zero. If the needle on the scale moves above zero, replace the switch with a new among the same type.

Step 4 4: Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Now that we've thoroughly exhausted door repair, there's nothing left to do except move inside and find out about the internal components of a refrigerator. In the next section, you will learn everything from how to repair a leak to how exactly to service your ice maker.

Servicing Internal Components

Thermostat controls regulate the temperature of the refrigerator and freezer. Remove the control panel to attain the controls.
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The inner-workings of a refrigerator can be quite a mixed bag. Some components are simple enough to service or repair, while others should only be handled by professionals.

Servicing the Limit Switch
The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. In case a refrigerator has lots of frost in the freezer compartment, the issue could be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- could cause exactly the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts come in working condition, the thing is most likely in the limit switch. Don't try to fix the limit switch yourself; call a professional service person for replacement.

Servicing the Thermostat Control

The thermostat control is normally mounted in the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of this control could be tested in a variety of ways, with respect to the problem. To check the thermostat control:

Step 1 1: If the compressor runs on a regular basis, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the machine, then pull off the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat set up. Grab the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the unit. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a fresh thermostat.

Step 2 2: If the compressor runs following the wire is taken off its terminal, there's probably a brief circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In cases like this, don't try to repair the problem yourself; call a specialist service person.

Step three 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs but the box doesn't cool, unplug the unit and take away the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires as well as electrical tape, and plug in the applying. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace sửa tủ lạnh tại nhà with a new one of many same type. Connect the new thermostat exactly the same way the old one was connected.

Step 4 4: If the freezer compartment is normal but the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they may be friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you will see an air duct close to the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and look closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about 10 minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a fresh among the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Evaporator Fan
Occasionally, a faulty thermostat may not be the cause of a warm refrigerator or freezer. A warm box can also be caused by a defective fan, a blocked fan, or broken or bent fan blades. If the blades are jammed, try to free them. If they are bent, straighten them with pliers. If this doesn't solve the issue, call a specialist service person.

On some refrigerators, the entranceway switch operates the evaporator fan. If the fan appears to be malfunctioning, the entranceway switch could possibly be faulty. Test the switch as detailed in the last page, and replace it if necessary.

Servicing the Defrost Timer
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is situated near the compressor. To check the defrost timer:

Step 1 1: Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Take away the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step three 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of many same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Defrost Heater
This component is really a heating element on the evaporator coil. When the refrigerator or freezer switches to the defrost cycle, the defrost heater is fired up to melt the frost in the compartment. Failure of the defrost heater causes failure to defrost.

Test the element with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. To get access to the heating element, take away the compartment's wall panels. Clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. The meter should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If it generally does not, the heating element is faulty and really should be replaced. Replace the heater with a fresh one of many same type and electrical rating. Connect the new heater the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Condenser Fan
The condenser fan is located under the unit. If the fan is malfunctioning, the refrigerator or freezer won't cool properly, or it will run continuously or not at all.

Test the fan with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the electrical wires to the fan motor and clip one probe of the VOM to each fan motor terminal. If the meter reads from 50 to 200 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 200 ohms, the fan motor is faulty and you should replace it.

While you're focusing on the fan motor, make sure the fan blades are clean and unobstructed. If the blades are bent, carefully straighten them with pliers.

Clearing the Drain Ports
The drain ports can be found along the bottom of both freezer and the refrigerator parts of the unit. These holes may become clogged with debris or ice, causing a drainage problem when the unit is defrosting. To clear the ports, work with a short portion of wire which will fit the holes. Usually do not use a toothpick, because the wood may break off in the port and become stuck. On some refrigerators, the drain ports can be found near the defrost heater at the evaporator coils. A great deal of disassembly must clean this sort of unit. If the refrigerator or freezer is this kind, you may be better off calling a professional service person to clear the ports.

On some freezer compartments, the drain is located under the freezer compartment and shaped like a shoehorn. This type of drain can usually be unscrewed in order that the drain area could be cleaned.

Servicing the Drain Hose and Pan
The condenser fan is situated under the bottom of the refrigerator. Through the defrosting cycle, water may run through a small hose in to the drain pan and is naturally evaporated. On some refrigerators, the drain hose is rubber rather than metal. This kind of hose may become cracked, causing leaks. Examine the hose. If it's damaged, replace it with a new one of the same type. If you spot water on the floor, the drain pan may be tipped on its brackets, or the pan could be cracked or rusted. To eliminate the leak, realign or replace the pan.

Servicing Ice Makers
Freezers with automatic ice makers sometimes malfunction as the water inlet valve strainer that feeds water to the ice maker becomes clogged. To correct this problem, unplug the applying and disconnect the water supply. Take away the water line where it enters the valve--usually in the bottom edge of the machine. Locate the wire strainer and remove it. Clean the strainer with a stiff brush, using mild household detergent. Reassemble the component in reverse fashion.

Servicing a Refrigerant Leak
Coolant leaks are identifiable by their acrid smell. You'll find nothing you can do to repair a coolant leak except call a specialist service person to handle the problem.

Servicing the Motor/Compressor
The compressor and motor of a refrigerator or freezer are contained in a sealed unit. In the event that you trace problems to either of the components, do not make an effort to fix the unit yourself. Call a professional service person.

As you've seen, some common refrigerator problems (like faulty gaskets) can easily be repaired at home, while others (such as a motor or compressor) are beyond the scope of the common handyman. Now you learn how to make the small repairs, in addition to when you've met your match.
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