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How exactly to Repair a Refrigerator in the home
A refrigerator is among the few appliances in your house that runs continuously, day or night, keeping your food cold. If you consider how hard a refrigerator has to work, it really is quite amazing that they breakdown so infrequently. On the rare occasion your refrigerator does stop working, you may face a higher repair bill and the expense of replacing all of your lost food. Have no fear! This article is here to tell you everything you need to learn about repairing your refrigerator and freezer yourself. You might be surprised to learn that repairs are actually quite easy, requiring only a little knowledge about the appliance and a little patience. Let's get started with some basic information.

Refrigerators and freezers consist of two basic components: a condenser coil and an evaporator coil. A liquid coolant is circulated through these coils by a compressor and a motor. The refrigerant liquid is cooled in the condenser; it then flows to the evaporator. At the evaporator, the air in the unit is cooled by contact with the liquid-filled coil. The condenser of a refrigerator or freezer is the coil externally of the machine; the evaporator is the coil inside. The coolant is circulated through the system by a compressor.

Most refrigerators and freezers are frost-free. In this sort of unit, a heater is automatically fired up by a timer in order to melt the frost in the unit. Frost is melted by the heater at a number of different spots in the unit, starting with the coldest & most frosted areas. Once the frost is totally melted, the thermostat automatically switches to a cooling cycle to be able to keep up with the standard freezing temperature. Because this process is automatic, frost will not build up in the box.

The unit's compressor system, which forces the coolant through the coil system, is driven by a capacitor-type motor. Other basic parts of the cooling/defrosting system include switches, thermostats, heaters, condensers, and fans. A do-it-yourselfer can ensure that you replace several refrigerator components. However, there are exceptions, as explained later, which are best left to a professional repair person.

Caution: Before doing any focus on a refrigerator or freezer, make certain it's unplugged. After unplugging the unit, check to see if the motor/compressor has a capacitor; this component is located in a housing on the top of the motor. Capacitors store electricity, even though the power to the machine is turned off. Before you do any work on a capacitor-type refrigerator or freezer, you need to discharge the capacitor, or you can receive a severe shock.

Contents
Discharing a Capacitor
Servicing a Refrigerator Door
Servicing Door Hinges
Servicing Internal Components
Servicing the Defrost Timer
Discharing a Capacitor
To discharge the capacitor:

Step one 1: Unplug the refrigerator or freezer.

Step 2 2: To get usage of the capacitor, remove the service panel over the back rear part of the machine or the service panel on the front of the unit below the door, as detailed later for disassembly. The capacitor is located in a housing on the top of the motor/compressor unit; it appears like a large dry cell battery.

Step three 3: To discharge the capacitor, work with a 20,000-ohm, 2-watt resistor -- a cheap wire unit available at most electrical supply stores. Fasten the probes of the resistor to the terminals of the capacitor; this discharges the capacitor. If the capacitor has three terminal posts, connect the resistor to one outer terminal and the center terminal, then to another outside terminal and the guts terminal. After discharging the capacitor, it is possible to proceed with the repairs.

Disassembling the Refrigerator
The control components of a refrigerator are often located in the very best or upper section of the unit. The motor, compressor, condenser coil, and condenser fan are located in underneath section.

To gain usage of the components in top of the section of the machine, take away the retaining screws or pry out the clips that hold plastic or metal panels over the parts. These fasteners could be hidden by trim or molding; in this instance, pry off the trim or molding with a stiff-bladed putty knife. Protruding controls could also serve as retainers for the various panel sections. Generally in most refrigerators, the shelves could be removed to allow usage of a few of the panels.

To gain usage of the lower portion of the refrigerator, remove a service panel held by retaining screws at the back of the machine below the condenser coils. The machine may also have a front access panel below the door. This panel could be held by retaining screws, or it may slip up and off two side brackets. On some models, you can tip the refrigerator over and ensure that you service parts from underneath. In this instance, the refrigerator must be defrosted, unplugged, and emptied before any servicing can be done.

The condenser and evaporator coils and the compressor are sealed units of all refrigerators. In case a malfunction occurs within these parts, call a professional service person. Other parts can usually be unscrewed or pried loose from mounting brackets.

Testing the Power Cord

If the cord of the unit looks frayed, or if you see burn marks on the prongs of the plug or at the terminal screws -- on the terminal block, under the rear access panel of the unit -- the cord could be faulty. Test the cord with a VOM set to the RX1 scale (instructions for using the VOM are available here).

An enormous amount of refrigerator problems can stem from the simple opening and closing of the entranceway. From improper temperature to an abundance of frost, door maintenance could solve all of your problems. To learn how to service your refrigerator door, move on to the next section.

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Chart
There are many explanations why a refrigerator or freezer might malfunction. For a whole guide to refrigerator problems and possible causes, just click here.

Servicing a Refrigerator Door
If you find your refrigerator's compressor is continually running -- wasting energy and reducing the life of one's appliance -- it could be due to issues with the entranceway. Ideally, sửa tủ lạnh in the refrigerator would never be broken, and the unit could maintain a reliable temperature constantly. Of course, we must open our refrigerators often a day. Here are some ideas to keep your doors working properly also to keep the warm air away from your meal.

Servicing the Door Gasket
Whenever a refrigerator gasket (usually a rubber seal around the door) becomes hard or cracked, its seal is broken, and the unit's efficiency drops sharply. Test the entranceway gasket for leaks by placing a dollar bill between your gasket and the entranceway jamb and closing the door. Pull the bill out. If it includes some resistance, it’s likely that the gasket fits properly. If the bill comes right out, or falls out, the gasket is faulty and should be replaced. Test the gasket at several locations around the door. Before you replace the gasket, check the entranceway hinges for leakage.

To displace a gasket:

Step 1 1: Purchase a gasket made designed for the model refrigerator you own. So-called fit-all gaskets may fit following a fashion, but tailoring them to the door's configuration could be a tough job. If you aren't sure concerning the model amount of your refrigerator, cut out a small section of the gasket and take the sample to an appliance dealer for matching. If the gasket needs to be ordered, it is possible to glue the section back into the gap with rubber cement for a make-do repair before new gasket comes in.

Step 2 2: Allow new gasket sit about a day in the room with the refrigerator to create it to the right temperature and humidity, or soak the gasket in tepid to warm water to make it pliable.

Step three 3: Begin removing the old gasket. Door gaskets are held by screws, clips, or adhesives, and the gasket could have a retaining strip, which helps shape it and provides a fastening tab or guide. On some units, the gasket may be held set up by the edge of the door panel; the panel is fastened with spring-steel pressure clips, bolts, or screws. To eliminate the gasket, take away the fasteners that hold it and remove any retaining strips; or remove the fasteners that hold the door panel.

Step 4 4: Finish removing the fasteners on one side of the door at a time. Usually do not remove the entire door panel. If the gasket is held by spring clips, take care not to pry too much on the clips; they're under tension and could spring out of these mountings. If the gasket is held by adhesive, pry it off with a putty knife.

Step 5: When the old gasket is off, clean the mounting area thoroughly with mild household detergent and water. Remove stubborn adhesive with mineral spirits and fine steel wool, accompanied by a detergent/water rinse.

Step 6: Start the replacement at one side of the most notable of the entranceway. Work down the sides to replace the complete gasket. Smooth the gasket evenly into place, easing it around corners. Use gasket cement to secure it if the maker specifies this step. Make certain the gasket lies flat, with no lumps or curled edges.

Step 7: Replace the fasteners, retaining strips, or panel that held the old gasket. Following the gasket is in place, tighten or loosen the mounting bolts necessary to adjust the gasket to the entranceway jamb. If the gasket is glued set up, there isn't much that you can do but await the gasket to comply with the door jamb.

Test the gasket on a freezer door with the same dollar-bill procedure; if the gasket is faulty, replace it with a new gasket made especially for the freezer. Usually do not remove the freezer door to displace the gasket. Freezer doors tend to be tensioned with spring devices, and this can be very troublesome to replace following the door has been removed, and on some models wiring needs to be disassembled as well.

Servicing Door Hinges
A worn or broken door gasket may not be the cause of door leaks. Misaligned and loose door hinges could cause the door to rock or sag slightly, making a good well-fitted gasket ineffective.

Step one 1: If the door won't shut tightly, tip the refrigerator slightly backward by propping up leading of the unit or unscrewing the front leveling legs two complete turns. Experiment with this adjustment before door stays closed, but don't tip the unit very far out of front-to-back level.

Step two 2: If leveling fails, tighten the hinge screws. You could have to open the door (especially the freezer door) to show these screws. On some units, you could have to eliminate a hinge cap or trim to attain the screws; pry off the cap or trim with a screwdriver. Sagging and looseness could be corrected by shimming the entranceway hinges. Loosen the hinge and place a hinge-shaped cardboard shim between your hinge and the door. Then tighten the hinge again. Sagging can also be the effect of a wrongly placed shim. In this instance, you can correct the issue by removing the shim. Experiment with the shims; you may well be able to get rid of the sagging.

Step three 3: If the door is warped, tighten the screws that hold the inner door shell to the outer door shell. You may have to improve or adjust the entranceway gasket after making this adjustment.

Step 4: Check the catch. Newer units have a magnetic catch on the door. If the entranceway doesn't latch properly, remove the magnetic strike from the inner door shell and shim it slightly with a bit of thin cardboard. You could have to regulate the gasket to conform with the brand new shim.

Servicing the Door Switch
On the refrigerator door jamb, locate a small push-button switch. This component operates the light inside the refrigerator. If the switch is malfunctioning, the light in the unit may stick to, and the heat from the lightbulb could cause cooling trouble in the box.

Step one 1: Check the bulb to see if it's burned out. Or even, depress the push button on the door switch.

Step two 2: If the light stays on, clean the switch with a cloth. Then take away the switch from the jamb. Remove retaining screws hidden by a plastic trim piece, pry the switch out of the jamb with a screwdriver, or pry off the jamb trim to expose the switch. Then test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale (instructions for utilizing the VOM are given on page 19).

Step three 3: Clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal of the switch and press the push button. The meter should read zero. If the needle on the scale moves above zero, replace the switch with a new one of the same type.

Step 4 4: Connect the brand new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Now that we've thoroughly exhausted door repair, there is nothing left to accomplish except move inside and learn about the internal the different parts of a refrigerator. Within the next section, you will learn everything from how exactly to repair a leak to how to service your ice maker.

Servicing Internal Components

Thermostat controls regulate the temperature of the refrigerator and freezer. Take away the control panel to reach the controls.
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The inner-workings of a refrigerator can be a mixed bag. Some components are fairly easy to service or repair, while others should only be handled by professionals.

Servicing the Limit Switch
The limit switch is found only on frost-free refrigerators and freezers. Its function is to keep the defrost heating element from exceeding certain set temperatures. If a refrigerator has plenty of frost in the freezer compartment, the problem may be the limit switch. However, other components -- the evaporator fan, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater -- could cause the same problem. Check these for malfunctions, as detailed below. If these parts come in working condition, the problem is most likely in the limit switch. Don't make an effort to fix the limit switch yourself; call a specialist service person for replacement.

Servicing the Thermostat Control

The thermostat control is normally mounted inside the refrigerator. Its visible control knob is turned to regulate the refrigerator/freezer temperature. The workability of the control can be tested in various ways, based on the problem. To test the thermostat control:

Step 1 1: If the compressor runs on a regular basis, turn the control knob to the OFF position. If the compressor still runs, unplug the unit, then accomplish the control knob and remove the screws holding the thermostat set up. Pull out the thermostat and remove either the red or the blue wire from its terminal. Plug in the machine. If the compressor doesn't run, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a fresh thermostat.

Step 2 2: If the compressor runs after the wire is taken off its terminal, there is probably a short circuit somewhere in the unit's wiring. In this case, don't try to repair the problem yourself; call a specialist service person.

Step 3 3: If the refrigerator or freezer runs however the box doesn't cool, unplug the machine and take away the thermostat with a screwdriver. Disconnect both wires from the thermostat. Tape the ends of the wires as well as electrical tape, and plug in the applying. If the refrigerator starts and runs normally, the thermostat is faulty. Replace it with a fresh among the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 4 4: If the freezer compartment is normal however the refrigerator box doesn't cool, set the dials that control both compartments to mid-range. Remove these knobs (they may be friction-fit). Then unscrew the temperature control housing; you'll see an air duct close to the control. Replace the knob on the freezer thermostat and turn the control to the OFF position. Open the refrigerator door and appearance closely at the air duct. If this duct doesn't open wider in about 10 minutes, the control is faulty. Replace the control with a fresh among the same type. Connect the new control the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Evaporator Fan
In some cases, a faulty thermostat is probably not the cause of a warm refrigerator or freezer. A warm box can also be caused by a defective fan, a blocked fan, or broken or bent fan blades. If the blades are jammed, try to free them. If they are bent, straighten them with pliers. If this doesn't solve the issue, call a specialist service person.

On some refrigerators, the entranceway switch operates the evaporator fan. If the fan is apparently malfunctioning, the door switch could be faulty. Test the switch as detailed in the last page, and replace it if necessary.

Servicing the Defrost Timer
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To check the defrost timer:

Step 1 1: Unplug the refrigerator.

Step two 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Take away the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new among the same type.

Step 4 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check on the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a fresh among the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Defrost Heater
This component is really a heating element on the evaporator coil. Once the refrigerator or freezer switches to the defrost cycle, the defrost heater is turned on to melt the frost in the compartment. Failure of the defrost heater causes failure to defrost.

Test the element with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. To gain access to the heating element, take away the compartment's wall panels. Clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. The meter should read between 5 and 20 ohms. If it doesn't, the heating element is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Connect the new heater exactly the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Condenser Fan
The condenser fan is situated under the unit. If the fan is malfunctioning, the refrigerator or freezer won't cool properly, or it'll run continuously or never.

Test the fan with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the electrical wires to the fan motor and clip one probe of the VOM to each fan motor terminal. If the meter reads from 50 to 200 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads greater than 200 ohms, the fan motor is faulty and you should replace it.

While you're working on the fan motor, make certain the fan blades are clean and unobstructed. If the blades are bent, carefully straighten them with pliers.

Clearing the Drain Ports
The drain ports are located across the bottom of both freezer and the refrigerator sections of the unit. These holes can become clogged with debris or ice, causing a drainage problem once the unit is defrosting. To clear the ports, use a short portion of wire that may fit the holes. Do not use a toothpick, because the wood may break off in the port and become stuck. On some refrigerators, the drain ports can be found near the defrost heater at the evaporator coils. Lots of disassembly is required to clean this type of unit. If the refrigerator or freezer is this type, you may well be better off calling a professional service person to clear the ports.

On some freezer compartments, the drain is located beneath the freezer compartment and shaped like a shoehorn. This type of drain can usually be unscrewed so that the drain area can be cleaned.

Servicing the Drain Hose and Pan
The condenser fan is situated under the bottom of the refrigerator. During the defrosting cycle, water may run through a small hose into the drain pan and is naturally evaporated. On some refrigerators, the drain hose is rubber instead of metal. This type of hose can become cracked, causing leaks. Examine the hose. Whether it's damaged, replace it with a fresh one of the same type. If you spot water on to the floor, the drain pan may be tipped on its brackets, or the pan could be cracked or rusted. To get rid of the leak, realign or replace the pan.

Servicing Ice Makers
Freezers with automatic ice makers sometimes malfunction because the water inlet valve strainer that feeds water to the ice maker becomes clogged. To correct this problem, unplug the appliance and disconnect the water supply. Take away the water line where it enters the valve--usually in the bottom edge of the machine. Locate the wire strainer and take it off. Clean the strainer with a stiff brush, using mild household detergent. Reassemble the component backwards fashion.

Servicing a Refrigerant Leak
Coolant leaks are identifiable by their acrid smell. You'll find nothing you can do to repair a coolant leak except call a specialist service person to manage the problem.

Servicing the Motor/Compressor
The compressor and motor of a refrigerator or freezer are contained in a sealed unit. In the event that you trace problems to either of the components, do not try to fix the machine yourself. Call a specialist service person.

As you've seen, some typically common refrigerator problems (like faulty gaskets) can simply be repaired at home, while others (like a motor or compressor) are beyond the scope of the average handyman. Now you know how to make the small repairs, together with when you've met your match.
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