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Grounded Or Not Grounded, What to Do With Those Old Fashioned Outlets?
Grounded (3 Prong) -VS- Non-Grounded (2 Prong) Receptacles.

Anyone who has ever done or lived in a house that was built prior to the Mid 1960's has seen them, the old "2 prong" non-grounded receptacles.

How many of them have you changed out with new "3 Prong" grounded receptacles as a way to accommodate a fresh appliance or computer?

How many times have you failed a Mechanical inspection due to a receptacle having an "Open Ground"

So what's the big deal anyway?

An equipment grounding conductor installed in an electrical branch circuit is designed to provide a continuous path to facilitate the movement of electrical current caused by surges and or faults - to earth via the homes grounding system.

If an appliance that has damaged wiring is plugged into a supposed "Grounded" (3 Prong) receptacle, instead following assumed grounding path back to earth, fault or surge currents could be passed through an individual.

By installing a "Grounded" (3 Prong) receptacle on an un-grounded electrical branch circuit, you may facilitate the utilization an appliance that under the right circumstances could cause serious injury or death to an unsuspecting user.

Since most homes that were built before the Mid 1960's were wired utilizing an un-grounded electrical system, the utilization of "2 prong" non-grounded receptacles was all that has been required.

Changes to the National Electric Code that started requiring the application of an equipment grounding conductor in all branch circuits and the introduction of sensitive electronic devices into our homes on the last40 years, have driven the need to install Grounded type (3 Prong) receptacles to support just how we live today.

So what's the right way to do this?

How will you update the outlets in your home, without developing a potential electrocution hazard?

We all know that rewiring an entire home can be very expensive and will potentially cause severe secondary harm to the homes finish.

Fortunately the National Electric Code affords us a few less drastic options.

Article 406 of the 2008 NEC says that only where connection to an equipment grounding conductor can be done shall a Grounded (3 Prong) receptacle be installed, unless one of many following replacement methods are used.

1) A non-grounded (2 Prong) receptacle will be permitted to be replaced with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) receptacle. These receptacles will be marked " No Equipment Ground". This marking is normally done by usage of a small sticker positioned on the receptacle cover plate.

2) A non-grounded (2 Prong) receptacle will be permitted to be replaced with a grounded (3 Prong) receptacle, w here supplied by way of a GFCI device. These receptacles shall be marked as " No Equipment Ground" and "GFCI Protected". Again normally, this is done by usage of small stickers positioned on the receptacle cover plate.

A GFCI device could be either a circuit breaker or receptacle. GFCI Devices are designed having an internal circuit that measures the amount of electrical current returning on the white- grounded circuit conductor ( or what's often referred to as the "Neutral"), when compared with the quantity of current being drawn from these devices on the black- ungrounded circuit conductor ( "Hot"). If the amount of current returning varies by more than the amount allowable by safety standards then the GFCI will open, thus cutting the flow of current through the circuit.

You should note when employing the utilization of GFCI protection as outlined in option #2 above, protection may be achieved through the use of either a GFCI receptacle, or perhaps a GFCI Breaker.

Depending on the kind of electrical service in the home, Fuses or Breakers and the wiring method used once the home was initially wired, it is more cost effective to install GFCI breakers to safeguard the complete circuit than it is to spend several hours of labor trying to separate out individual devices for protection.

One thing to keep in mind if you are installing a GFCI device of any sort, is that the contents of refrigerators and chest freezer could be lost if connected to a GFCI protected receptacle that trips and is not reset prior to the contents thaw.

As always every home differs, as is every wiring system. You should always consult with a licensed Master Electrician prior to starting any electrical project.

Article Supplied by Kim Tucker with MAREI from information provided by Bill Vaughn, Accessible Electric Inc., (913)-915-0838. Member of MAREI. MAREI works exclusively with real estate investors who wish to learn and become successful at property investing. Have more information
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