Notes

CLOTHES
Take it simple just do 2 items at a time. 3 max.
If J's do 1 item at a time or 2 different is fine if only 2 pieces of clothes. (Kevins handles bigger orders much better plus have less time in LA. J's honestly she kinda fucks it up and drops the ball frequently. so id rather just give her one item only if theres multiple)
Do different items so they dont get mixed up.
Dont rush just chill. doing 2 items at a time way more relaxing, not spending as much money at once
instead of giving measurements, it is far better to have a sample and do chalk. because they may measure it differently than i do. or mismeasure it. or just have them pin it there (but this does not apply to pants tapering, shirt and pants hemming which i typically want precise measurements on)
They may measure it differently. I think it’s best to give a sample an match that sample. Or if I have a 17.75 inch waistband and wanna take in to 17.5, instead of saying take in to 17.5, measure it with them and say I want the 17.75 reducer by 0.25
-Use j crew sueded polo thats 27.75 inches as reference for polo. bring it with chalk, then clarify with them its same as seuded polo.
-DRESS SHIRTS: TAKE IN BOTH SIDES AND SLIM THE ARMS. Especially if it something that is considerably sized up like ralph lauren large or j crew bowery slim large, those both definitely need slimming in arms. For tommy hilfiger, would need slimming if its 16.5, but not if its 16. for the portuguese poplin most likely as its a 17. for BR dress shirts i am not sure yet depends if i get a large or slim XL but doesnt matter, you should want to get both done at same time if possible. really only shirt i dont think needs it is the large tommy hilfiger casual oxfords and poplins
-30.25 for slim straight fit like italian or 770. 30.33 for a regular straight like GAP modern straight khaki.
-BUTTON UP SHIRTS 28.25 INCHES WITH CURVE ON SIDE.
-POLOS: 27.25-28 INCHES. (CAN DO 27 AND 7/8TH. )
-Measuring from side of collar is also quite unreliable. The most consistent area to measure from I would say is from the back of collar to back of shirt. Only issue with this is the shirt back needing to be a little longer tho. For a consistent measure, put in fresh as a flower triangle wire hanger to measure so it starts from same shoulder point. I needs to be the triangle one to be consistent


TO BUY:

Absolutely done with Hilfiger shirts but try navy oxford. if it is good then hemm it to 28.25 inches. and tailor it. Just mark the 28.25 spot myself.

Return swap White and blue ralph lauren performance button ups

one of the 34x32 dark grey gap is short. I put rings on it to identify it. return swap it Also order iron grey in 34x32 so i dont have to rely only on 770 for medium grey. 2x iron grey. Also need to return swap 33x32 2x black and 1x stone because they are kinda tight too tbh, honestly all GAP 33 pants are tight except for the navy one in 33. the 33x32 was a bit too tight in thigh and the 33x stone did insane flare out. just do 34 for a more comfy fit and higher rise. make sure to dry these new ones. (The light colored ones are a bit wrinkly so i would sell the stone gap chino if stone broken chino is good)

So new 34x32s: dark grey return swap, stome return swap, 2x black return swap.
then proceed to buy
plus brand new 2x iron grey and 2xstone. (use one of the 34x32 return swapped blacks to get a free iron grey or stone. so only order 1 stone. because i dont need 3 black chinos)

try out north face terra peak instead of down hooded classic jacket

J crew factory polos are 28 inches. PERFECT. so they only require taking in.

Buy these at the same time: 1x coastal Beige ralph lauren for untuck. 1x shamrock stripe ralph lauren for untuck. 1x light blue broken oxford* for tuck 1x white broken oxford for tuck. Now here is where we decide: for casual TUCK light grey stripe, I would prefer no logo and Dominic green Broken oxford. So get that, but if its too green or the lines are too dark, then opt for shamrock stripe ralph lauren for tuck.
For broken oxfords, i feel slim is the way to go but get both just in case since i will be altering them anyway. i dont want to be dealing with super baggy arms. im just gonna do everything at kevins from on now too and he doesnt really do the arm part i dont think.
*dont get raincoat blue

J crew factory: Coastal seascape, its a nice light grey color get 2x more for tuck and untuck. and the white navy 2x each for tuck and untucks. dusty peri for untuck.

Ralph lauren oxford striped shirt return
From on now im doing both slim sides and sleeves on button shirts. However I need to do sleeves ONLY on J crew bowery and maybe ralph lauren performance shirts.
Polos try ralph lauren Large, BR Large and slim XL
DRESS SHIRTS COLORS: try banana repibublic reg L, and slim XL. for: White with grey stripes, light (cloudy blue), heather grey, dark grey. maybe micro check light blue for bowery. Slim the sides and sleeves if necessary.
try wool blend black mock neck jacket br factory
Macy's final two ralph lauren stripe oxfords to return swap. Plus get that black and white ralph lauren stretch poplin THAT LOOKS DARK GREY. i will decide between that and BR dress shirt dark grey.
Two dress shirts. dark grey and cloudy blue.
Quarter zips - go for navy and beige. dont bother for black, navy should basically cover it in every single way except if i wanted to wear navy chinos. Quarter zips: superdry, ralph lauren, BR, BR factory, J crew. any others
BR FACTORY, BR MAINLINE AND RALPH LAUREN POLO SHIRTS
COLLARED HARRINGTONS BOMBERS (Ryan waterproof jacket hart schaffner marx mango zipper cotton jacket chevignon mens jacket cotton essential and aviator style blue,
MOCK NECK HARRINGTONS - Superdry harrington, Brooks brother mock neck michael kors blouson jacket, calvin klein harrington. by definition mock necks are harrgintons, its way easier to find mock neck harrington navy than collared ones, NYLON SPORTS JACKET SUPERDRY
ALPHA TRAINER 4
two iron grey gap chinos and return swap the 34x32 dark grey one that is like 11.7 inches
BROKEN OXFORDS J CREW and BR. namely white light blue and possibly grey (For BR only for grey, the j crew grey is grodi). but only possibly cuz the BR oxford doesnt seem that good, especially the V and collar area. And i already have ralph lauren grey button up oxford to use for casual grey tuck in. also for broken oxfords dominic yellow and dominic green as untuck maybe fine
BLACK CAP TOE OXFORD WITH BROWN LINING AND BROWN LOAFER (Rockport loafer, rockport black and brown loafer, cole haan grandflex. if the black is more comfortable then sell the cole haan go to since go to toe box kinda tiny and i prefer cap toe.)

alterations:
Take in pants WAISTBAND TO a generous SIZE 32 (17.25-17.33 inches). 17.5-17.75 Waist with 17.25-17.33 waistband is generally the best for me.
17.5 does fall down quite a bit tbh throughout the day i gotta readjust it. I think 17.25 is best compromise. 16.75-17 more likely to stay on waist but 17.25-17.33 should accommodate weight fluctuations and i dont want to risk it being too tiny in future. As long the pants fit wells and i use a ratchet belt or a belt with custom holes punched in pants should stay on fine with 17.25 which is much better than the defualt 17.5-18.25 inches on sz 33 and sz 34 pants id take in.
I think 17 exactly is fine for very high rise like broken in chino or stretch waist bands like 5 pocket pants though.
I considered 17.5 maybe fine, so i dont have to waste money on taking in waist and it can accommodate any possible future weight gains and instead making belt tighter (Track belt or custom holes in hole belt) but thats no good, all it does is adds friction and makes it uncomfortable and tight feeling and the pants still go down because the belt is simply tight but the waist area is still loose and does not cling to thighs and waist. I think having a slightly smaller waist band is better solution to keeping pants high all day but is obviously a more permanent and costly solution.

FOR SHIRT HEMMS AND PANTS HEMMS, YOU CAN TRY MARKING IT YOURSELF

J's she measure the pants waist directly on the band which is a bit different the way i do by measuring on top. need to make sure its measured 17.5 inches from the top. Doing it this way caused a couple pants to be taken in a bit too much then what i wanted.

Kevins measures pants hemm length with a straight edge ruler, I need to have him measure with a measuring tape. doing with a straight edge ruler gets slightly longer results. he also measures button ups via the placket, i need him to do it simply from top of shoulder to bottom

Perfect hemm is usually 30L, 30.33 R

I think a good jacket length is 28 inches. Slightly longer is fine but 28 is good and versatile. any less might be too cropped looking and i dont like the cropped look but jackets are supposed to fit shorter than shirts and i always wear jackets unzipped anyway so their length does not matter that much. its not anywhere as necessery to shorten jackets as theyre unzipped and dont have the same effect a long shirt may have. but if i do, 28 inches is good. any shorter its too cropped too boxy for me. southland jacket large is 27.25 inches and i think but need to double check the biswing is like 27.75 inches so they are both well under my 28 inches limit. those are harrington style jackets which tend to be a bit more cropped. 28 inches is a good all around number to go for, for most jackets though.


Button shirts: Just tailor them to same as j crew bowery shirts.

Polo hemms: Hemm to 0.25 inches shorter than J crew seuded polos. About 27.75 inches. Maintain all hemmed polos have a stich on the inner label.
actually 28 inches is fine OR 0.25 inches SHORTER than j crew seuded untuck

Polos 28 button ups 28.25-28.33. Going any shorter isn’t gonna make legs look longer it will just make shirt look weird and boxy and cropped. Theres only so much you can do. Don’t over compensate and go overkill and make shirts super short and looking bad. 28 polo and 28.25 button ups is a healthy combo
28.25 is what i want for button ups but just do 28.33 to be safe if i need too

Button up shirts slightly longer due to curve, about 28.25 inches. Also button shirts need curve mainted during hemm. Also all hemmed shirts need stitch.



to do:
-Take in sides slightly without affecting arms on all hilfiger shirts. Both tuck and untuck.
-Italians 30/30.33 (waist band 17.33 inches) EXPAND seat only a tiny bit by 0.25 inches
-Mushroom 770 x2 and khaki 770 fixes (mushroom 770 loose with plastic ring: Take in waist band ONLY to 17.25. taper bottom of left leg by 0.25 inches. This one may not be necessary if just keeping belt at 4.5 holes keeps pants up)
Mushroom 770 without ring and khaki: LET OUT waist by 0.25 inches to 17.5 but KEEP WAISTBAND AT 17.25..
-5 pocket pants, taper the left leg. (besides grey). also expand seat by 0.25 inches.
-Italian chinos, 30L, 30.33R hemm. Take in waistband to 17.25 inches. NAVY DARK GREY 2X WHITE
-ralph lauren oxfords for UNTUCK. do them seperately from TUCKS. make them untuck, then take them in.
-Ralph lauren performance shirts 2x take in
-Ralph Laurem poplin shirts take in. poplin navy, light blue poplin and possibly a dark grey. originally wanted navy untuck but it should be fine tuck, if i make buttons dark grey. Change of heart because albert wesker re4 remastered looks so damn good with navy tuck shirt. also would have two navy hilfiger poplins untuck.
-do Darts for nicer looking tuck in on HILFIGER 4X poplin sweet blue, 1x sandstone stripe, 2x blue stripe
-Possibly BR dress shirt or brooks brothers dark grey or white dress shirts take in. modify buttons if need so.
-take in tommy hilfiger dress shirts. But return swap to 16.5. Even if i a shirt fits and looks good at say, a 16, it might be better to get it slightly larger at size 16.5, to get more arm space, shoulder space and V area on my neck. So better to size up and tailor it down as i get a perfect fit but also get more arm and shoulder space for my wide frame and a more open V area which i like. and of course a perfect fit instead of a best size off the rack that fits, fit. The only shirt that truly fits perfectly or like 90% well (its maybe 5% too baggy but not big deal at all and definitely not worth taking in and also risking arm area getting tight) is large regular fit hilfiger casual oxford and poplin. only need to modify hemm if want for untuck. So theres a good reason why i have so many, they are cheap and versatile and fit extremely well off the track. I am not bothering with michael kors trim stretch poplin shirt and the 16.5 slim dress shirt, The j crew broken oxford is much better casual tuck in white and j crew, tommy hilfiger dress, and ralph lauren white dress shirts are better white dress shirts. the michael kors are just see through looking and this would free up hangar space for other colors. it is not necessary to size up if i am already happy with v area and arm/shoulder space but its still better to tailor in something that is one size up for extra space in arms still.
-Take in 17 J crew portugeuse poplin 2x
-North face soft shell need to shorten arms like half an inch still
Calvin Klein softshell make slightly less baggy like bionic 2, make arms a bit shorter, extend the bottom and make arms a bit wider too. just fix it overall.
-Calvin klein collared windbreaker
-34x32 GAP. 3x dark grey 1x medium iron grey 3x black 1x navy. 1x stone Legs to 30.33R/30L. Take in SEAT to 17.5-17.66 inches. waist band to 17.33 inches possibly. Do any tapering if necessary on whichever ones. You should only do once at first to see how you like it tbh then do the rest. also keep in mind the dark grey ones already fit well. then after all waist and hemming is done you can try them on for any tapering.
-GAP PANTS: taper them only once 34s are tailored, so i can taper all of them in one go without confusion.
-RALPH LAUREN OXFORD SHIRTS. 1x slate 2x white 2x blue stripes 2x light blue. 1x. Coastal Beige Stripe 2x. Shamrock stripe Do stitch on all untucks. stripes and grey doing untuck @ 28.25 inches. Blue and white ones are both untuck. Coastal beige stripe is untuck. Stripe is one untuck one tuck. Shamrock stripe is one tuck one untuck (UNLESS i do dominic green broken oxford for tuck, for a white light greenish grey tuck in button up.) make sure they have curved hemm. Tailor all of them regularly.
-mock neck harrington, navy harrington
-Superdry shirt hemm and alterations.
-quarter zips: khaki, navy
-maybe make the arms slightly less wide on the 4 ivory untuck, 2 ivory tuck and 1 black untuck j crew sueded polos. THE tuck ones maybe add darts or take in chest a bit cuz they are a little baggy when tucked in.
-optional shorten arms and shorten to 28 inches patagonia puffer, north face puffer and michael kors puffer. only if its viable and easy. also only if its 29 inches or higher. if its like 28.5 inches not really worth it. 28 inches sweet spot for a normal jacket while 27.75 for a bomber since those are a bit more cropped style.
-POLO: So basically hemm every of the new polo i get whether its ralph lauren or BR or BR factory. light blue, cream white, navy, dark grey. Except white dont hemm that as i will have alot of br whites to hemm and my only tuck in is the AnF and i guess the j crew ivory. And Navy get two, one for untuck one for tuck. DO STITCH ON ALL UNTUCKS. I can take in polo, so how it fits is not big deal. moreso which has the best V area, which looks like the ralph lauren one with the colored pony has a 3 button placket.
Also for current polos: all Banana republics white and black hemm to 28 inches. all black ANF to hemm. the one navy anf that was half hemmed with the orange moose untuck it, one of the navy BRs untuck it. that light blue br polo is hemmed to 28 i believe, just needs the sides opened. and hemm one of the BR dark grey polos as i really like that one.

ALL NEW POLOS HEMM. (and take in if needed)
all current polos either hemm or possibly take in or do darts for tuck ins.

Notes
I'm Feeling Lucky


Notes
I'm Feeling Lucky