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Gibson Lab Series Amps - Designed By Moog - MUFF WIGGLER
Guitar/Amps/Lab/ The multifilter is actually a six-band EQ with mounted settings, the place you control only how a lot of the signal by way of it gets combined again with the primary sign, kind of like a flanger's comb filter with the sweep set to zero. lab series shave gel had been additionally a favourite of other gamers resembling B.B. This was during the time when Norlin owned both companies. A few of the amps have a Multifilter circuit built in, which is imagined to sound type of like a static comb-filter. The frequency centers are at 1000Hz, 1370Hz, 1900Hz, 2630Hz, 3630Hz and 5000 Hz. King and Allan Holdsworth. They're solid state, but are presupposed to sound quite tube-like. The opposite cool factor that I only in the near past realized is that Bob Moog helped design these amps. Jason Brock wrote:I've by no means owned one, however I've at all times been inquisitive about these amplifiers since I learned a very long time ago that considered one of my favorite guitarists (Ty Tabor) got his signature sound partly from a Gibson Lab Series L5.
Does anyone know why this might be occurring? I want the clean channel with the vivid switch on. Does anyone have any expertise with this amp and an overdrive/distortion pedal that can get me some thick chunky american sound without making the amp sound like hot garbage, or does this sound extra like a problem with the amp itsself moreso that the kind of pedal I am using? I am plugged into the "hi" enter jack on channel 2 and have the vivid change turned on. However the pedal may be pushing them too laborious however Im not sure. I do know the speakers are very old, in all probability the originals, but they sound very good in any respect volumes on the amp without pedals. It is extra prevalent with the bright switch in the on place, but does not fully go away when its turned off. If I roll back the volume knob on the pedal it does clear up a little bit bit, but then I am not at the identical volume ranges when i change from clear to soiled.
Perhaps if he puts out an L4 PCB, he could be satisfied to go the easier-to-discover & cheaper chip route. Mr "Aion" himself, Kevin, has been an amazing assist monitoring down information - however I can not help marvel why he spec'd two 3080 chips for the compressor section once they're turning into rare and thus pricey when LM13700 IC is a dual 3080 and still relatively plentiful and low cost. L4's "DEEP" switches are mirrored by the L5's "Bright" switches, so I will be making further changes, I hope, and relabelling there, too. Just got here across this thread; I have been researching the L4 on/off for the last yr or two (or three?) - unsure how I missed the thread up 'til now. I assume he was going for authenticity, and at any fee I'm simply grateful he's put this challenge on the market in any respect. Alas, my L5-to-L4-alike conversion is pretty low in my construct queue, as I'm nonetheless constructing up skills & confidence on smaller initiatives.
K5 (Model 332): Keyboard combo amp, 100W, 2×12. Very rare, issued later than the others (ca. 1979) along with the L6 bass combo amp. Speaker is an Electro-Voice EVM-15L. L5 (Model 308): Guitar combo amp, 100W, 2×12. That is the flagship of the sequence with two channels, reverb, multifilter, and compressor/limiter. L11 (Model 313): Guitar head, 200W. Identical preamp circuit to the L5 however with a 200W energy amp. Originally got here with a cabinet. L7 (Model 309): Guitar combo amp, 100W, 4×10. Identical circuit to the L5 but with a distinct speaker configuration. Marketed as a practice or pupil amp. Completely different circuit than the others although the controls appear comparable on the outside. L9 (Model 312): Guitar combo amp, 100W, 1×15. Identical circuit to the L5 but with a distinct speaker configuration. Originally came with a 4×12 cabinet. L4 (Model 317): Bass head, 200W. Just like the L5/7/9/11. L6 (Model 331): Bass combo amp, 100W, 1×15. Very uncommon, issued later than the others (ca. 1979) together with the K5 keyboard amplifier.
The schematic regarded daunting at first, but after fixed staring, it appears somewhat comprehensible now. How do you drain the filter caps? It performed, but the hum got here round again in 10-15 minutes. I have been modding and fixing my tube amps the past couple of years. What do you guys out there say? I tried to see if the preamp out labored whereas it was humming, however I discovered the preamp out doesn't work in any respect. I'm assuming that, moreover the 2 huge caps you can see on the PS board (C207 and C208), the 2 metal cylinders sticking out of the underside are covering some extra caps. And that is half of my troubleshooting plan (for now); after I check the facility provide, the other half of my plan is checking the ability amp part. It's very straightforward on a tube amp but I have never discovered any info on how its' completed on a ss amp. I purchased a service guide from ebay (it should be right here any day now), and I've slightly electronics restore expertise. Once I try this I'll have sufficient courage to see what form these caps are in. lab series l5 compressor found out the amp will hum after 10-quarter-hour even when you do not have a guitar plugged in.
The frequency centers are at 1000Hz, 1370Hz, 1900Hz, 2630Hz, 3630Hz and 5000 Hz. I would consider buying an amp I hadn't performed my own guitar by means of; I used to be convinced after trying half the guitars at Clark Music that it was excellent. I purchased this amp because I was getting uninterested in lugging round my Univox 1040 combo, which weighed greater than a Fender Twin. So we hauled my heavily modified Hagstrom Kent down there and tried it. I took that as an excellent sign. I gigged with it for a few yr, after which Alan moved on to a different band (for whom I ended up operating sound). Alan did not want to stop playing my guitar through this amp. It still wasn't gentle, but it was about as gentle as an actual 100 watt, 2x12 combo was going to get. This is likely one of the few solid state amps I've performed that was as loud as an equivalently rated tube amp.
Looking at the schematics, it’s not arduous to tell that the L5 was designed first, then refactored into the 7, 9 and 11. After that, they designed the L2 and L4 bass amps along with the L3, which makes use of CMOS technology not present in any of the earlier designs. In different official schematics, although, the model variants are listed only as “A” for home and “BX” for export. The one distinction is an alternate power provide designed for larger line voltages, and a few of the power-dealing with components being raised from the circuit board to conform to foreign regulations. Then the L6 and K5 had been the last two to be designed. I have never seen both an “AX” suffix or a “B” without the “X”. This correlates with my actual-world experience in taking a look at several dozen items. The service guide indicates that there's an “A” and “B” model for each mannequin, after which separately mentions that the “X” refers to models manufactured for export. The mannequin numbers seem like assigned sequentially based on once they had been designed. It is unknown for certain what the “A” and “B” suffixes check with. The “X” suffix (e.g. 308BX) indicates that it is an export mannequin, manufactured in the United States but intended for the overseas market. Completely totally different circuit than the others, although it bears some resemblance to the L6. A number of the schematics point out that they apply to (for example) “MODEL 308 A, AX, B, BX”.
But I acquired it for almost nothing. I’ll publish the movies. The seller most likely has a greater ear than me but I wouldn’t think there was something unsuitable with them simply listening to them. It ain’t fairly. And it smells like it lived in someone’s kitchen. Ive never performed one of these or something louder than my AC15. It’s not me taking part in - he’s much much better than me. Didn’t play with it enough to attempt to see if it was working however didn’t appear to do a lot if something. Not sure if the compressor works - the light doesn’t come on. I figured I’d must change the audio system however I plugged in immediately and they appear to each work. He despatched me some videos and fiddled with the EQ and what-not. The man that offered it to me stated he thought it was slightly dull sounding so he plugged it right into a 5150 4x12 and mentioned it sounded good.
Manufactured by Norlin, mother or father company of Gibson and Moog, using the resources of each of these subsidiaries. Miles O'Neal, Austin, TX. I nonetheless; have it, because I couldn't find it once i sold the amp. I known as Gibson, and so they sent me a service pack, with schematic, elements data, and service notes, I think without cost. They're here beneath Service Docs. I've by no means seen an proprietor's guide, though one apparently exists. You can use both or each channels, but you can't change between them except you use an exterior A/B or A/B/Y swap. I think we only did that once outdoors of follow, although. This is not a channel switching amp. Used with their permission. I've missed it ever since. I by no means cared; the one time I used each channels was when Alan and that i each performed guitar via the amp at one time. I bought it the next year at Christmas as a result of we have been flat broke. Amp picture from inventory of Broadway Music in Nashvile.
However, since the subject has come up, I could as well inform whomever could be bothered to learn this that I personal a Lab Series L3, of which I'm very fond. The break-up is maybe simply a bit of ragged when it does slide into overdrive, however it's far from the worst I've ever heard, though I normally keep things clear anyway. All the identical, I prefer it quite a bit for its heat and full tonality, its light weight even with the speaker improve and the simplicity of its controls with no fiddly channel switching or umpteen choices. Quite so - zombification par excellence! The transformation is outstanding. Sounds good to me. I've gigged the re-speakered L3 very happily various instances, although it isn't one of my regular working amps. However, I chanced to find on the market a brand new and unused previous-inventory made-in-England Celestion G12H-a hundred in 4 ohms - hens' teeth are common by comparison - and willingly spent extra on it than the whole amp had value me in the primary place. It nonetheless isn't the very loudest 60-watt amp on the planet, but it is rather a lot higher than before and the underside end response is full and clear; there's a number of warmth within the sound. After i bought it the original 4-ohm CTS speaker was still current if not totally correct, as it flubbed out slightly unpleasantly within the bass end and seemed fairly inefficient too, since the amp was far from loud for a claimed 60 watts. Only very slight demerit: the reverb needs turning up quite a lot to make its existence obvious, however what the hell - I simply flip it up to that time and go forward and play.
Even the schematics to other amps of the L-collection are accessible, most even by simple Google search. It is feasible, but is it feasible? Kraftwerk used on Autobahn. There were no schematics (we had to hint the entire thing out), only one among the 2 designers was nonetheless alive and only had imprecise memories of the design and it took the most effective a part of a yr, on and off, to get it working. Schematics, format diagram and service notes of Lab Series L5/L7/L9/L11 amps could be found with Google search inside seconds. The OTA chip is the one actual downside but happily those have been made in tens of millions so many places nonetheless have them in inventory. It had been purchased by Daniel Miller of Mute Records for a number of £K and he needed it restored to original/ usable condition. Entirely different state of affairs, though. If the output blows and substitutes to authentic devices can't be discovered a useful tech can easily refit the facility amp for totally new devices quite simply. Aside the RCAxxx power transistors and the discontinued OTA chip most components are generic, nonetheless manufactured and acquirable from any decent digital element store. A couple of years in the past my boss and i repaired/ fastened the unique design! This would possibly need few modifications to bias circuit but it surely is not rocket science.

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