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Why do waves bubble and turn white when they break? - BBC

<h1 style="clear:both" id="content-section-0">Dramatic shot of ocean waves crashing on rocks Royalty-free - Truths<br></h1>
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<h1 style="clear:both" id="content-section-1">The smart Trick of Rain &amp; Storm Sounds With Ocean Waves Crashing (75 That Nobody is Talking About<br></h1>
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<h2 style="clear:both" id="content-section-2">How 48,048 Ocean Waves Crashing Stock Photos, Pictures - iStock can Save You Time, Stress, and Money.<br></h2>
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<img class="featurable" style="max-height:300px;max-width:400px;" itemprop="image" src="https://render.fineartamerica.com/images/rendered/default/flat/beach-towel/images-medium-5/ocean-waves-crashing-athena-mckinzie.jpg?&amp;targetx=0&amp;targety=-74&amp;imagewidth=952&amp;imageheight=625&amp;modelwidth=952&amp;modelheight=476&amp;backgroundcolor=F4F4F6&amp;orientation=1&amp;producttype=beachtowel-37-74" alt="painting of waves crashing on the rocks in acrylic - Ocean Waves Crashing On Rocks - Sand painting, Ocean waves, Painting"><span style="display:none" itemprop="caption">Amazon.com: Coastal Sunset Ocean Waves Crashing on Rocky Cliffs Scenic Wall Decor Art Print Poster (16x20): Coastal Decor: Posters &amp; Prints</span>
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<p class="p__5">Sophia Kazmierowicz, December 17, 2018 Sent as coursework for PH240, Stanford University, Fall 2018 Intro The ocean and environment form a coupled system that is constantly exchanging energy at the air-sea interface. The circulation of energy from the environment to the ocean leads to an "aerodynamically rough surface area that can make up vibrant, unstable, extremely high and steep surface waves".</p>
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<h2 style="clear:both" id="content-section-3">The 10-Minute Rule for Ocean waves crashing over the rugged Oregon coast<br></h2>
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<p class="p__6">These waves hold an immense amount of energy that is released when they crash. Utilizing this energy could offer a sustainable source of power. Facing the environmental damage and limited supply of carbon-intensive fuels, it is essential that we find eco-friendly energy sources. Wave power is environmentally-friendly, renewable, and takes benefit of a resource that covers 71 percent of our Earth.</p>
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<p class="p__7">Waves are mainly triggered by wind, particularly the friction in between the wind and water. When wind blows on the surface of the ocean water, it transfers energy and presses the surface into forming peaks, called white caps. Learn More Here around white caps is choppy and chaotic, with water moving in random instructions without a pattern.</p>
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<h3 style="clear:both" id="content-section-4">The Ultimate Guide To Wave pounding - Wikipedia<br></h3>
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<p class="p__8">The consistent disturbance will eventually trigger the water to organize into swells of orbital progressive waves. As a swell takes a trip, the water molecules relocate circular orbits. As portrayed in Fig. 1, The orbit begins at the waves trough, follows the increase to the crest, and then goes back to the trough.</p>
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<img class="featurable" style="max-height:300px;max-width:400px;" itemprop="image" src="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/71/ee/88/71ee8800d308fbe6e39dd3241cc3859a.jpg" alt="ocean waves crashing on shore during daytime photo – Free Ocean Image on Unsplash"><span style="display:none" itemprop="caption">Ocean Waves Crashing Under Sun Going Down Portrait - Smithson</span>
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<p class="p__9">Although only the top of the orbit shows up, the wave does encompass the ocean flooring. As the swells travel, they clash and through constructive interference, they combine. As the energy takes a trip towards the shore, the water depth decreases, causing the orbits size to reduce and the wave to slow.</p>
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<img class="featurable" style="max-height:300px;max-width:400px;" itemprop="image" src="https://jooinn.com/images/waves-crashing-1.jpg" alt="Ocean Waves Sounds (10 Hours) Beach Scene, Ocean Sounds, Ocean Waves Crashing, Ocean Sounds Sleep - playlist by Sleep Better - Spotify"><span style="display:none" itemprop="caption">Ocean waves crashing onshore 1240782 Stock Photo at Vecteezy</span>
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<h3 style="clear:both" id="content-section-5">Not known Facts About NWS JetStream - Wind, Swell and Rogue Waves<br></h3>
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<p class="p__10">This causes the wave to grow, becoming taller and steeper. The drag on the ocean floor increases and the wave beings to tilt. Near the coast, it will be shallow enough for the back of the wave to topple over the front, leading to a break. The shape and size of this break depends on the length of time and tough the wind blew.</p>
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